+1 prusa, I’m ob my mk3s+ for 7 years now, after moving twice, banger around, still prints like new. I was thinking of reapplying lube, didn’t need it.

The toolheads have all been fine, all the problems have been with the 3 axes - but prusa support always came through, even after their warranty period, and got it fixed pretty quick.

My XL has given me far more issues than my mk3s+ though. Maybe growing pains on shifting to corexy?

There are many ‘mods’ for UI already, which is why much of the core development effort isn’t addressing the UI.

That’s what you get with a volunteer run initiative. If you want for freecad to get better, contribute.

Prusa or make your own corexy

Is there an indx kit for voron ?

Don’t worry about it. The way we get into cad is defined by the first cad suite we get familiar with. If you start with parametrics like freecad/solidworks like me, we’re sort of ‘doomed’ to stay there, whilst blender folk have to stay with blender and similar.

Best time was yesterday. Second best time is now.

Or printer of choice and no partner to tie you down!

I would think that comes with experience. Each to their own I suppose. If it makes the technology more accessible, I’m all for it, but not at the cost of increased prices.

I already get a warning for the first part - printer already known what I’ve loaded because I’ve told it. It knows what is currently loaded and can compare against gcode. Of course I could’ve made the mistake of telling it the wrong material when I loaded it, and that’s on me.

Alot of poka-yoke stuff then?

Sounds like an application for print farms.

What’s the problem that spool tags solve?

I’m not knocking against this initiative by prusa, but the idea of spool tags in general.

I looked quite heavily into the swapper3d, but there doesn’t seem to be much development or adoption there.

Then it’s a leveling issue. That corner is either too high or too low. Not sure why it’s not been suggested yet.

Could you point me to one that overwrites my old posts?

If you’re an engineer, go with the prusa if you don’t want to dick around with the printer itself after. Get the XL multi tool of course if you want multi material.

You should not that multi material isn’t analogous to multi-colour. You’ll never get the shading and a million colours with multi material (or mmu/amu style) as you need your filament to be the colour you want to print in. Post processing ipso facto is the only way to get true colour shading.

You can go with prusa HT as an affordable (10k) engineering printer. It will print up to amorphous Peek. Of course there’s no multi material with this.

Well it doesn’t fall apart and boiling water is only 100C, and it’s not like it’s sitting in the boiling water for long