If you are interested, here is the book that taught them all how to do it:

https://www.nirandfar.com/hooked/

Here is the book the same author wrote when he realised his kids were getting addicted to devices:

https://www.nirandfar.com/indistractable/

My only point was:

these restrictions have the capacity to carry real impacts on people that amount to more than mild inconveniences…

I already can’t access many (and growing to MOST) government services without my government’s “my gov” app.

The mygov app won’t install/run on my devices as it is not a stock Android OS.

I’m LITERALLY unable to gain access to many government services without having to run a less secure “stock” device.

This isn’t an “oh my, what an inconvenience” situation over here.

It becomes an actual life limiting event.

Hyundai bought Boston Dynamic.

I feel it’s less about their factories and more about using them as a proving ground, as they will have to make that investment make some kind of revenue.

I hear you. My philosophy changed about 20years ago when Apple switched to Intel:

Mac laptops are expensive, but I regularly get 4-6 years from them without too much drama if I simply max out the ram when I buy them.

My thinking of my eventual move to Linux full time, a Framework or System76 machine costs similar to a Mac, and use the same Max ram philosophy.

I just wish the build quality was just a bit better for the price, but I’m willing to trade a little for user serviceability…

I* want* to buy one. But:

• I’m mid cycle with my last laptop; and
• who the hell can afford to buy RAM for a new system these days?!?!

They are now one and the same…

https://k9mail.app/2022/06/13/K-9-Mail-and-Thunderbird

I often recommend mailinabox for the same thing…

On android: have you tried Thunderbird with davx5 as the connector?

I have suggested people start with MailInABox and go from there…

https://mailinabox.email/

I tried the ellis3d model and while I hadn’t got all my start macros together, first time I ran it I crashed the nozzle into the bed and gouged it.

Later attempts with a 0.6mm nozzle also gave me inconsistent and hard to read outcomes.

Instead, I use this two box method on opposite corners of the front of the bed:

https://forum.vorondesign.com/threads/how-to-confirm-your-pressure-advance-value-is-correct.23/

Since then, coupled with the rest of the ellis3D tuning guide, my printer has been DIALLED…

Check your z offset, first layer squish and extrusion multiplier, then pressure advance.

That looks like too much filament or too close to the bed. Some of the edge artifacts could be pressure advance as well.

I spent a year chasing those problems out of a printer, and had hundreds of FL tests that looked just like that.

If you’re interested, Ellis 3D tuning guide is amazing. (I use a different pressure advance calibration method, but the rest has been bang on for me…)

Only 395?!?!

I don’t upload my photos to the cloud, and don’t use the search function. It’s just a photo library app on the phone. It seems to do a better job of post processing the pics from my Pixel, which is why in use it.

It let’s you run Google Photos without network permissions and with storage scopes limiting it to certain folders.

https://www.notboring.co/p/the-electric-slide

A long but very worthwhile read for anyone wanting to understand the electrification industry.

I spent a year trying to get my Prusa factory assembled mk4s to print properly. Prusa support even eventually sent me a full replacement printer that had the EXACT same problem out of the box.

I returned it, bought an LDO Voron kit for a 2.4 350mm and haven’t looked back.

The kit had pre made harnesses, which was 100% the right move for me.

(Incidentally, the drawers for my desk I was trying to print on the Prusa originally are now printed and finished on the Voron, and working great…)